Tying a Redfish Gonga 0Everybody, this is John Wood, and I am coming to you again from East Rosebud fly and tackle in Billings, Montana. Today, I wanna do for you, this is a modified fly from Charlie Craven, this is a modification of his Gonga, and I got a call a while back from a fellow who wanted some gangs, but he was taking them to the coast of Texas, and he wanted to fish for red fish. Well, ravens Gonga writes her point down, and since red fish are bottom feeders, that kinda creates a lot of problems, especially when you're around weeds and things, so I have modified this so it will fish point up and instead of putting the eyes in the hook up, I'm putting them on the bottom. And what we're gonna use is, I like the tides on these series hooks, this one is the 420 in a size 1 and the eyes, we're gonna use our painted ladies size medium. I wanna get that down fast, the tail is this mini bar bugger, boo TA bar black, and then we're gonna have a little Crystal Flash in the tail Root Beer, and it will be wrapped with white shopping, the body is a medium tactical, it's got a little bit shorter fibers than the standard, and this is gonna be in Root Beer also, and then these bare legs in sand and Orange, we're gonna use four of those, and then the head is gonna be built with pseudo hair.
- East Rosebud Fly and Tackle
Tying a Balanced Leech 0
Hey, this is John Wood, and I am coming to you from East Rosebud Fly and Tackle in Billings, Montana. In this video I'm gonna tie for you fly known as the balanced Leach, and this is a version that was taught to me by a good friend of mine from Colorado, Justin Brenner. Now, the balance Leech was actually originated by Jerry McBride of Spokane, Washington around 2005. And it's a great fly, and if anybody that's fish with me can tell you that I am not a big fly fisherman, I like small flies, I like things that are easy to cast, dry flies, small nymphs, this thing here kinda cast like a cowboy hat, but it's worth the effort, when fished the way it's intended to be, it's fish to under an indicator, and that's one of the reason that makes it so hard to cast. And we'll talk about that as we go along. I wanna show you the materials we're using, we're gonna be tying this on the... I get that nowhere. You can see the numbers, the U555 Jig hook in size 12, the threat I'm using for this brand, and one version is the rusty Brown Uni 6/0, and you can see it's a burnt orange color as opposed to UTC Rusty Brown, which is more actually brown.
Tying Jagger's Leech 0
Thread Shredder Dave Jennings Tying a Jagger's Leech
Hi everyone, Dave here. East Rosebud Fly and tackle maybe in your area. I know it's certainly starting to happen here, or Ponds, Lakes are opening up, the fish are hungry and they're roaming around, the leeches are most active early in the spring, so this is a good time of the year for leach patterns, of course, the fruit roll up is a very popular pattern, I'm going to tie a very simple pattern called Jagger's Leech, this is actually illustrated in Charlie Cravens Tying Streamers, so it only takes a couple of materials, I took two different colors, a wire, a little bit of rabbit fur tied properly. This thing drops like a bomb and it weighs next to nothing, so it's a very easy pattern to fish in different depths of water, going to start off using a is a Kumodo 9395, but anyone's make of this hook, this is a 4X long Ring-eyed streamer hook. As I've showed you in other videos, you could always been a down... I hope straight, if you have a heat source, very easy to do. I'm using UTC 140 denier purple thread. I'm using the UTC thread because his ability to stay flat, and we want a smooth under-body, any time you're wrapping wire over an under-body, that under-body has to be as smooth as you can make it...
Material List to Tie Along with Dave
Hook: Kumoto 9395 Size 4 – 4XL
Thread: Uni Denier 140 Purple
Get Started Tying a Jagger's Leech
Start behind the eye, use your tag and as a slide that helps to keep things nice and tight, I like to cover about half of the hook and then flatten that threat again. All the way to the back. If you look closely, you can see how this thread is starting to court up, that's the nature of all threads, every time you make one turn, you induce one twist between the thread at the hook and the thread at the Bobbin, and by spinning it counter-clockwise, like that you remove that twist and re-flatten the thread, we wanna make sure we're at the end of the hook Shack, which is the back of the bar, and then return or thread smoothly all the way to the eye. We just come in a lot of colors. So of course, you can make this in many different combinations, going to stop about one eye length short of the eye, I'm going to be using two different wires, ultra thread, medium black, and then the brass and wine, this fly takes a lot of bread or a lot of wire, can on using about nine inches of both colors of wires for this size hook, the two different weights of wire give it a bit of a 3D effect, the same thing if you tie a two-wire Popper, John.
So we wanna get both of the ends even here, it's nice and straight, but them up so that they're even, so set on one eye length back from the eye, keep them together and wherever you keep them on the hook, wherever you like to tie wire in, just keep it there, don't let it wrap around the hook, I like to keep mine on the top of the hole, so I can see it. Now, when we come to the end of the shank, we're actually going to take this wire down about three wraps, if we don't do that, when we slide on our bunny strip, the bunny strip will want to ride up onto the hook and it won't remain straight.
So this way, we're going to force it.
To be straight on top of the hook, check, so just a few wraps down the shank, all it takes.
And then we're going to bring our thread back up to the front.
And again about one eye length short. I'm going to use my rotary capable vice here, I'm going to go and tie off the thread here with a half hitch and put it on a Bobbbin and holder. Now.
Until I get around that hook point, I like to wrap it by hand, make sure these wire stayed parallel to each other.
Once you get them wrapping, they will stay side by side, but the first couple wraps, you may have to assist them and staying tight. Any time I'm wrapping wire, I find it much easier to keep it tight, if I keep a little back pressure on the wire, tip it a little bit towards the back, and that way it rolls off the face of the previous wrap and it stays nice and tight, okay, hold it close to the hook so you can control it and keep that angle back a little bit and letting that open up a little... And again, about like shy of the eye... And we're going to tie the wire off.
Two or three good tight wraps here, and then I find it cleaner if I break one wire at a time. And if you measure your wire on, say, it takes about nine inches for this size, then you will minimize the waste that you have on here...
I'm over-wrapped that. Clean that up a little bit.
Okay, there's a bazillion different types of rabbit strips out there that you can use, all kinds of colors, I'm gonna be using this to tone purple and florescent fuchsia.
You need a strip that is at least twice as long as the hook shank itself, and you wanna work with... Of course, the lay of that strip, so I'm gonna use the hook to piece this strip... We adjust that a little bit. I want the grain of the hair flowing back and I wanna pierce this about one hook shank length... Try to get it right in the middle of the rabbit strip. Pull it all the way through. And we want the fur side to be where the hook is, so you might have to twist your strip around what the hide against the hook, the fur side where the hook point is, if I get this clear... It was like a bad hair day. Okay, we're going to tie this down about one behind the hook and just simply stretched this if this hair to lay pull it tight so that that strip is straight and a couple of wraps, secure it. When you cut this off, cut it straight across to cover, this is much easier to move from the back of the hook eye up-ramp it up that way, your wraps of thread won't want to slide off of that, you're just going to make a nice smooth...
Transitional cone here. So whip finish And that out of the way. Now to complete it, we'll measure the strip to be hook shank in length, bring it up right behind the eye now to try to avoid from cutting the actual hair, just slide your scissors in as close to the leather as you possibly can, I just like to initially make a Nick, for my length, like that, by keeping your scissors underneath the hair and rite against the leather, you won't be cutting as much of the hair, so the hair will continue to flow off that cut-in and then finally just cut this trailing end into a V against. Slide your scissors against the leather, try to avoid cutting the hair, the V gives a little extra wide action when its in the water, if you've tied this correctly, that rabbit is tight against that wire and the fly will fish again a straight line. As.
Craven says, This just drops like a bullet, so it's easy to fish in those weed pockets, it's easy to fish along the edges, and you can easily fish this with a four-weight rod at was virtually nothing.
Thanks for joining in. And again, if you ever have any questions or comments, let us know. We'll see you next time.
- Richard Romersa
Quigley Cripple Fly Tying Tutorial 0
Bob Quigley developed this pattern back in 1978 while fishing the Fall River in Northern California. The Quigley Cripple represents a mayfly emerging from the nymphal shuck. It can be tied in a range of colors/sizes to match your local hatches.
Egg Laying Caddis Fly Tying Tutorial 0
The Egg Laying Caddis is one of many effective patterns developed by Craig Matthews of West Yellowstone Montana. Craig Matthews patterns are standard fare and commonly used on lakes, rivers, and spring creeks in the Yellowstone area.
Letort Hopper Fly Tying Tutorial 0
In this fly tying tutorial Dave discusses the Letort Hopper and covers a bit of its background. Ed Shenk developed this killer little hopper back in the 60's. It is a proven hopper that has a delicate presentation which is very effective on spring creeks, sloughs and slow water areas.